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By Cassie Powney and Sheilla Mamona
The anatomy of the ear is surprisingly complex, but intrepid ear piercers are most intrigued by the idea of a conch piercing. Named after the seashell due to its shape, the conch is the curved cup of cartilage that sits inside the lower part of the ear, next to the ear canal.
You can actually pierce two parts of it: the inner conch (a stud right through the middle of the ear, usually parallel to the daith) and the outer conch, AKA the contraconch (closer to the curved cartilage of your outer ear, making it perfectly-positioned for a hoop). Celebrities such as Kylie Jenner, Zoë Kravitz and Rihanna all rock stunning conch piercings, incase you need any more convincing it's the ear look you need in your life.
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“We’ve definitely seen an increase in people getting conch piercings for their curated ear,” says piercer Laura Bond. “People are more nervous about the thicker cartilage piercings but there’s no reason to be, a good piercer will reassure you and make you feel comfortable.”
Conch piercings allow for big, bold pieces if you want to make a statement, according to Astrid & Miyu piercer Charlotte Collins. “They can accommodate a large statement piece, or small and dainty ones that catch the light beautifully.” These days, piercers use sterile, single-use needles rather than the traditional piercing guns. “Piercing guns can’t be cleaned, let alone sterilised,” warns piercer at Ouija Piercings in Derby, Emma Whitethorn. “They cause trauma to the piercing site and can cause permanent scarring, especially when used for cartilage piercings such as the conch.”
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“People have different levels of pain tolerance and all ears are unique," says piercer at Lark & Berry, Svetlana Hristova. "But naturally if the cartilage is thick, this might cause a bit of extra pain.” It’s also worth bearing in mind that a cartilage piercing will take longer to heal, around 6-12 months, compared to the lobe, which usually takes around 2-4 months, depending on the individual and level of aftercare (check out our aftercare section further down).
Prices vary depending on the piercer you use and the jewellery you purchase. For example, Astrid & Miyu charge a flat rate service fee of £20 per 20-minute appointment, which includes a maximum of three piercings. Their jewellery ranges from £35-£55 each (for titanium piercing jewellery) and £100-£195 each (for solid gold piercing jewellery). Maria Tash charges £35 per conch piercing and the cost of her conch jewellery ranges from £110 for a solid gold stud earring to £13,095 for a gold diamond spike!
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All piercings can become inflamed or infected, but good aftercare is key to avoiding this. A less common reaction to piercing is keloid scarring: an abnormal, raised scar that’s tricky to treat, and can spread beyond the original wound. It’s thought to be genetic, so check for any keloid history in your family before having your first piercing. It’s not to be confused with hypertrophic scarring, which is common in cartilage piercings and remains within the borders of the original wound, eventually shrinking. “Crusty bits are a normal part of healing,” adds Whitethorn, “but if the piercing site is swollen and throbbing, with a green or dark yellow discharge, return to your piercer or seek medical advice asap.”
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Pain levels are subjective, so measuring pain scales for conch piercing will vary person to person depending on the individuals' pain threshold, the technique used by the piercer and the aftercare practices. However, they are considered to be moderately painful (and more painful than earlobe piercings) due to the thickness of the cartilage being pierced.
During the piercing process, you may feel a sharp, intense but quick pinching sensation as the needle passes through the cartilage. Afterwards you may experience, soreness, tenderness and swelling in the pierced area.
Conch piercings can take anywhere between six to twelve months to fully heal, but healing times do vary from person to person and dependent on other external factors like aftercare practices, the piercing technique and the specific location of the piercing. during the initial healing period (typically lasting four to eight weeks), it's important to follow proper aftercare guidelines to promote healing and reduce the risk of complications.
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“Most people don’t take care of their piercings until there’s a problem, then they care a lot,” says Bond. She advises you to gently clean it twice a day while it heals, using a saline solution made up of one teaspoon of salt and eight teaspoons of water (you can also buy it ready-made in most chemists). “No sleeping on it, and if you must touch it, wash your hands first!” she tells GLAMOUR. “If your piercing becomes infected, soak it with saline solution and see your piercer or seek medical advice if there’s no improvement.”
Consider consulting a professional to determine the best materials for your specific needs and preferences.
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“Conch piercings require a labret stud to begin with,” explains Collins. “The outer conch can then be changed to a ring once healed.” Bring on the stack! ”Using a hoop for a conch piercing isn’t impossible," adds Hristova, “however the hoop will push against the cartilage after it swells up and inhibit healing.” Whitethorn urges you to not skimp on jewellery quality. “It’ll never heal if it’s pierced with low-grade material,” she tells GLAMOUR. “Don’t be scared to ask what your piercer uses - implant-grade titanium is the best because it's strong, light, and resistant to body fluids, meaning it’s biocompatible." Another reason titanium is a favourite is that it doesn't contain nickel, which some people can be sensitive to. Implant-grade stainless steel is considered safe, but Whitethorn points out that it’s an alloy, so is likely to have some nickel in it. Fine metals like gold and platinum are also a safe bet, but invest in solid gold rather than gold plating, which can flake off and cause infection.
“The perfect style for the conch is a delicate stud or a crescent that follows the natural curve of the inner part of the ear," Hristova tells GLAMOUR. “Another cool option is the snake bite, which contains two small vertical studs close together, creating the illusion of a snake bite.” When we ask Bond the same question, she answers, ”I love inner conch piercings, or even multiple conch piercings to show off as many dainty studs as possible. But hoops also look beautiful and make a statement. Like any ear style, it’s all down to personal choice."
With Bling Olive Tapered Marquise Piercing, £18
Crystal Heaven London Eye Of Wisdom Opal Clicker, £170
Astrid & Miyu Navette Fan Barbell in Silver, £39
0.8 Mm Nose Ring How you change your conch piercing is extremely important to prevent infection and irritation. First thing to remember is that your should make sure the piercing is fully healed before attempting to change the jewellery (six to twelve months although this may vary from person to person). Ideally, the first time you change your conch you should leave that with the professional who did pierced it for you in the first place. They will also be able to best advice on how to change it from home depending on your current earring style. However, if this is not an option here are some last resort tips for the safest way out: